3454 Bates Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15213
Introduction: Right on the corner of Bates Street and McKee Place is an Oakland staple. Groceria Merante has been operating in this spot since 1979, but their history runs deeper. The Merante family has owned and operated different Italian markets since 1955. Their family originates from Calabria, a region of southern Italy. We had the opportunity to sit down and chat with sisters Philomena and Julie to learn about the history and culture of their family business. And to answer the age-old question, it's pronounced "Mer-AN-tee!" Early Days:
"How were things back when you first opened?" "Different" In our conversation with Julie and Philomena, "different" was a common word used to describe the way things used to be. Things were different, but they "weren't better or worse." Back in the day, the business was a whole-family operation. Adults stayed in the shop and worked, while the kids were sent down the block to run deliveries. Typical orders included large pallets of eggs and olive oil by the by the barrel, requested by customers who lived in Oakland with their entire extended families. In fact, Groceria proudly called themselves "The Oil Capital of Oakland!" Oakland used to be a family neighborhood, primarily occupied by Italian immigrants. During this time, canning was incredibly important, and fresh fruits and vegetables flew off the shelves. The sisters said they noticed a resurgence of this trend in recent years! The sisters reminisced about regular customers they had throughout the years and the specific orders they would fulfill each and every week. It was fascinating to hear the rich history about the neighborhood we all call home. Some of the few remaining original residents still stick to their roots and make large batches of sauce on their porches. For many generations the storefront has provided a taste of the rich culture of Oakland. Family Matters: The Merante family is made up of seven children. Though many of them have branched out to pursue different endeavors, family is at the heart of this establishment. Julie and Philomena manage the Oakland location and employ their own children, as well as some Pitt students. The family doesn't stray far from food though! Julie's son is a Michelin Star Chef in New York City. Sundays are for family dinners, and it's been that way forever. From their childhood home in Oakland up to the present day, Sunday dinners are a celebration of the two most important things in Italian tradition: food and family. Fun Stories:
The evolution of Oakland throughout the years is fascinating. Philomena reminisced on how close the South Oakland families were. She remembers kids being sent to play with the neighbors, being gone for hours at a time. However, there was no need to worry because everyone knew that the community looks out for each other. The sisters recognize that this closeness, while different, is still prevalent in South Oakland today. Both sisters have build close bonds with multiple Pitt students who have become regular customers throughout the years, especially Julia. She works the front of the store and has grown very close to Pitt students, talking amongst them everyday. Philomena likes to tease her sister, stating "Julie treats the students like her own kids, she even cries when they graduate!" This is a clear indicator of how family is so important to the Merante sisters. We were told the story of how Julie met her husband. He worked at a restaurant in North Oakland, and would source ingredients from Merante's. If he didn't come in and flirt, his mother would come and try to set the two up. He would even send roses to Groceria! They eventually got married, and his father made a cake for every table of the 200+ guest wedding. In their family baking or cooking for a major life event like this "is an honor." Food & Culture: Much of the produce at Groceria Merante is locally sourced from Lancaster county. We were able to sample some olives, and were delighted to learn that they are sourced from Anthos, another immigrant owned business in Pittsburgh! (Check out our February 2024 blog!) They get fresh bread delivered daily, and you can taste the quality in the freshly made sandwiches. If a product at Merante's isn't local, it's likely imported from Italy. You can't find this level of quality anywhere else. So if you're looking for fresh produce, a handmade meal, or good conversation, Groceria Merante is the place to go to feel at home. |